Monday, February 15, 2010

educacion, amor, y huevos

OMG! So much has been going on to fill you in on. I feel a big one coming on... (no, don't worry - I'm not talking about poop at all in this entry)
(Although now it seems appropriate to note that here in Mysore, and pretty much all of India from what I gather, there is poop EVERYWHERE. Cow patties, dog poop, monkey poop, human poop, etc etc. All over the streets, and on people's hands all the time, I'm sure. There's hardly any TP around and only sometimes soap at sinks. And they use ungloved hands a lot for preparing and serving foods. And for eating. I try not to think too much about it, and have faith in my immune system.)

Yesterday was a wonderful magical Valentine's day with Wren. We started the day by exchanging gifts in our little apartment. She gave me a beautiful yoga mat bag that was filled with fresh roses and jasmine leaves, and wrote me a beautiful letter. Wren loved the presents and cards I gave her and said she felt like a princess! (foreshadowing...) After we had breakfast at an outdoor shala cafe with some friends, we headed just outside of town, with our little posse, to a gorgeous & very fancy hotel. The drive there alone was amazingly beautiful, and the place was like a huge magical castle. Complete with a horse-drawn carriage out front that made for a perfect photo shoot opportunity! Still a bit in awe, we went inside and paid for day use of the swimming pool. We walked through the ornate sunlit hallways and out to the grounds, where a lovely oval shaped pool was waiting for us to jump in . We spent all day there, laying in the sunshine, splashing around, sharing a pile of fresh cut fruit off of banana leaves, telling jokes, writing, chillin out/maxin/relaxin... It was splendid. For most of the day we had the place all to ourselves. From there we went to an Indian cafe, where we stuffed ourselves with dosas before heading to Mysore Palace to see it all lit up again (see how this all follows the princess theme?). A magical day all around. I went to sleep feeling grateful for all the love I have in my life (if you are reading this, that probably includes YOU!)

I am learning so much here, all the time. I start each day with asana class, for challenging physical learning. Then I go home for a while to do chores and rest before I head to philosophy class with the guruji. I am enjoying it so much. There is only one other student in the class - a lovely young man from Kerala who teaches hatha yoga and paints murals in Hindu temples. He is very enthusiastic to be learning from the guruji. The two of us sit on straw mats on the floor in front of our guruji, who sits in a plastic chair and tells us the history and fundamentals of yoga and shares all sorts of wisdom on spirituality and lifestyle and lots of other things. He has an uncanny way of knowing things about us that seem like things a 'stranger' wouldn't just know about us. He doesn't even know my name or where I am from, but in moments throughout the lessons he turns to me and gives me little jewels of advice and wisdom specific to my life, without being asked. It's amazing. He is 83 years old and has fewer wrinkles than most people half his age. He rides a moped around town, and says funny little things all the time. Until now, I have been getting a feel for who he is and what he does. And today I feel sold on him. I want him to be my teacher. I think I could learn so much from him. So I am hoping I'll be able to return to Mysore in the future to learn more from B.N.S. Iyengar.

Aside from my classes at the shala, I have been learning Pranayama (yogic breathing exercises) from Wren at home. Every night or 2 she teaches me a little something new and then I practice it. I'm starting to feel it more intensely. And I think it is helping to improve my breathing during asanas, which is making my practice stronger. Apparently after studying with Iyengar for a little while here, people start to look and act noticably different. I could see it in Wren when I arrived. She is more healthy and radiant than I've ever seen her. Glowing! She has lost weight but gained muscle strength and grace. And she thinks I already look different, after only about 2 weeks. She says I look more composed in my body, and that myface looks brighter. Well, I think there are many things around here that probably brighten my face! ;)

Wren and I have been taking some cooking classes here as well. They are held at a woman named Shaila's house. She is a sweetheart and an excellent cook, and happy to have us there. There are only a few people in the classes at a time. She gives us recipes and we watch her make them. It all goes on for about 3 hours. We get to sample everything as we go along, and at the end we stuff ourselves with everything. And it's deeeeeeeelicious! All for about $10 per session. We've learned to make idlis (little white cakelets made from fermented rice & dal), chutneys, curry, desserts, rice dishes, chai, many types of dosas, etc. We just got out of our dosa class, in which we watched Shaila make dosas and then each cooked our own masala dosa. And then ate it, of course! Mmm.... I am truly stuffed.

I have entered the feeding phase. For the first week or 2 I was here my appetite was nowhere to be found. I never really wanted to eat, and when I did I got full right away. Unintentional fasting. Apparently that happens to a lot of travelers when they get here and start the yoga. And then comes the feeding. Now I am eating tons. And fudging on my veganism. (Which probably comes as no surprise to some of you!) I knew I would probably not be able to avoid a little ghee here and there, so I decided to have an open mind about it. But after 2 weeks of intensive yoga practice, I found myself eyeing and drooling over other people's eggs at breakfast. I've eaten eggs a couple times since I became vegan, if they came from chickens that I knew for a fact have a happy life (like at my brother Chalo's house). But I haven't actually craved any animal products at all since I became vegan 4 or 5 years ago. I think the combination of the yoga practice and my dietary differences here left my body needing something, so after a couple days of wanting I caved in. I ordered a couple eggs over-medium with this amazing millet bread toast they have here. I took a moment to respect the chickens and recognize my gratitude to the universe before hoovering every crumb of it and immediately ordering another plate of it, which I wolfed down as well. I felt amazing afterwards! It was like a kind of high, and I was full of energy and happy. So I felt good about my choice. And the next day I did basically the same thing all over again! I won't be eating them everyday, but I am trying to take good care of myself and listen to the things my body is telling me.

Being here is already putting a lot of things into perspective for me, in a healthy way. And I'm feeling physically stronger. Wren and I have a lovely natural way of working in harmony and balancing things in our lives together, like house work, scooter driving, paying for things, preparing food & tea, etc. Especially with the drastic change of going from never seeing each other and barely speaking for 4 months to living together and spending nearly every waking and sleeping moment together! It's all playing out quite nicely.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Today was a stiff first day back in my early-morning asana class, after a three-day absence. Why, you ask?
LAS CAGALERAS.
Yes, the shits I mentioned in my last entry lasted for days and days. Both me & Wren. One little apartment. No TP. (Getting to know you.....)
I tried to stay strong. I was a trooper. A few days into it, I was dreaming of toilet paper. Literally.
After one particularly rough and sleepless night for Wren, we booked it to the doctor in the morning. In the ER. It took about 5 minutes, and it was free (except for about $4 for medicine for both of us). A few days later, we are almost back to normal. And I still have a shred or 2 of dignity left, somewhere around here....

Yes, it's been a humbling experience.

...
I had my first philosophy class with the guruji today. I'm very excited to be learning more than just the asanas with him. He is a tiny, funny little man witha twinkle in his eye. Wise and hilarious in his ways. A bit hard to understand at times, but I'm getting better at it. Today we learned about the first 4 of the 6 darshanas. More tomorrow.

Asanas are going well, despite the few days set-back. I think I'll be able to do a headstand without the help of the wall soon, which will feel like a victory for me.

Scootin' around town has been a blast! I've been doing most of the driving for us since I started, and I love it. Even with all of the crazy everywhere. I love the crazy everywhere. (And yes, the crazy is everywhere.) And I have no idea how to get around yet. It still all looks the same to me everywhere, so Wren has to tell me exactly where to go. Ha!

It's a weird vortex of time here. Life moves at an entirely different pace than I'm used to. So slow, it seems, but the days fly by so fast - I can't believe I've been here for almost 2 weeks!

I got the clothes back that I had tailored for me. They mostly worked out well, except an interesting orientation of the fabric on the drawstring pants I had made resulted in some nonsequitor bursts of bright color right in the crotches. Ha! It sometimes surprises me when I look down. Sweet.

The other night Wren and I went to Mysore Palace, where for an hour every Sunday evening they turn on lights that cover every line of the architecture, outside and in. It was stunning. We sat in a grassy patch with a nice view, entertained by each other and many little Indian children running and playing all around us, while a band played music for all.

Getting into the groove of this foreign (in more ways than one) domesticity with Wren has been going quite well so far. Yes, every moment with her is a blessing.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Scootin'

(I wrote this many days ago, but the power went out before I could post it. Finally back at an internet place, so here it is.)


I'm starting to feel a lot more energetic today.

Finally starting to get over the jet lag, I think. I've easily gotten used to Wren's yogi schedule. We go to sleep around 8 or 9, and wake at 4:30 (believe it or not!). She makes us teensy cups of coffee, and we're off to the shala for practice.



My practice is going quite well, I think. I'm still a bit wobbly at some of the asanas, and sometimes I fall over and laugh, but I'm getting better at others, and stronger little by little. Wren thinks I'm naturally talented at it. (She flatters!) Says she thinks it's my vegan diet and open mind/heart. :)



I got my first bought of the shits yesterday! I was expecting intestinal turmoil at some point on this trip, but I was a bit surprised that it has happened so soon after my arrival. But then again, not surprised. Ha! But I feel fine in spite of it. Yes, it's all part of the experience.



It's hard to keep anything clean here. It's just dirty everywhere. I've already gotten quite used to having dirty feet and smelly armpits all the time. Everybody else does too! We have a very "rustic" bathroom at the apartment. Wren calls it a "medieval princess bath" - it involves two big buckets for hot and cold water, and a little plastic pitcher (just like the toilet ones) to pour it on yourself with. It's actually quite nice. We do our laundry in there as well, by hand with a detergent bar, and hang it outside to dry. I'm enjoying that so far too. (And it makes me feel so much more grateful for all the conveniences I have in my normal daily life. So spoiled we are!)



I've been driving the scooter around for the first time today! I was a bit nervous about it, but once I actually started doing it I was having a lot of fun. I'm still just a bit tentative and wobbly (I've never driven a moped before), but I don't mind the crazy traffic. I'm getting quite used to it. There's something a little relaxing in the chaos of it. And it's exhilarating to zip around, with my darling in tow.



Yesterday we went to the lake here in Mysore. Wren and I layed in the sunshine, meditated, watched the water birds. It was so peaceful and beautiful, and there was hardly anyone around. Such a nice break from the heavily populated, dirty, noisy buzz of life everywhere else here.



Today we spent hours laying in the sunshine by the pool. We shared the headphones and listened to songs from my tiny ipod. Our current fave: Bad Romance by Lady Gaga. I introduced Wren to it, and she loves it like I do. It's so wonderful to have such relaxing downtime here. I feel like I'm really living in the moment for the first time in months. Before this I had been so busy with moving and traveling and making plans and preparing for things. And now, life is easy and great. Oh yeah, and I'm getting tan already from all this sunshine.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Day 3 in INDIA

Life is blissful now.

The days move slowly so far, filled with sunshine, relaxation, a beautiful overwhelming clutter of life all around, tasty delights, a whole host of new and interesting smells, a cacophony of sounds from the street, and my love by my side in all of these new experiences and adventures.
I could get used to life like this.

My yoga practice starts tomorrow. 5:30 am! (It's been easy to adjust to such an early rising so far, thanks to the jet lag and my confused body-clock.) Wren is very excited for me to meet her beloved esteemed guruji. And judging by her hilarious impressions of him, I think I will love him too. This morning Wren did her practice at home, and I watched her move quickly from asana to asana with incredible strength and grace. It was inspiring. But I know that week one is going to kick my ass! In a good way, of course. I expect I will be quite sore for a while.

I had some fun adventures on the way here. Missed my scheduled flight from Chicago to London. You might find yourself asking why, or how that happened. Let's just say I had a brain fart. A BIG one. And then the plane was gone. I decided to remain positive, and saw the humor in it right away. It happened right after I was on the phone with Leah, telling her how relaxed I was about my travels. (A little too relaxed, maybe?) But I knew it would all work out fine. After lots of waiting patiently in line and one the phone, I got my flights rescheduled for no added fee (Don't ask me how that happened... Some sort of divine intervention, I think) . Since I would be spending the night in Chicago, I called Ben and in 5 minutes he called back with the name and number of a friend who was willing to take me in for the night. I called Jen, and she and her partner Cara came and picked me up from the airport, took me home, gave me pjs to sleep in, a cozy bed, a shower to use, and some fine company. I liked them right away. And their kindness made my trip so much better. I was actually glad I missed that flight. The next day we went to breakfast at an adorable restaurant called Earwax that had circus-themed decor, looked in some shops, and then took a little rolling tour of downtown Chicago before heading to the airport. It was a great little side-trip and I am so grateful to have some wonderful new friends.

Flew from Chicago to London, where I spent my layover all cracked-out from my lack of sleep. Flight to Bangalore was smooth-sailing, and I watched the movie Slumdog Millionaire for the first time. It was beautiful and tragic and made me excited and just a bit nervous for my visit in India. I'm not nervous anymore.

Wren and her taxi-driver friend were waiting for my just outside the airport. I could hardly believe she was real, after 4 months of missing her and longing to be together. We cuddled in the back of the taxi for hours from Bangalore to Mysore, chatting and watching the sunrise. The driver asked for directions about 10 times from different people walking around on the street. He stopped and bought us little garlands of fresh jasmine flowers that he wrapped around our wrists. And we stopped for tiny cups of sweet coffee and a "toilet' to use (that's what they call bathrooms here, like the British). It was my first experience with a squat toilet. Basically a hole in the ground to squat over and do your business. No toilet paper. I had to ask Wren what the little faucet by the ground and the small plastic pitcher were for. For cleaning yourself off, with your hand. Surprisingly fine & dandy, I thought. But it will take a little getting used to.

We finally arrived at the apartment that Wren has been living in. Our apartment now. She undid the combination lock, opened the small door, and I stepped inside. It was breathtaking. Fresh roses and their petals were covering every surface, and even on the floor here and there. Garlands of fresh white jasmine flowers and beautiful pink flowers were strung from the ceiling, in the doorways, and alongside the surprisingly lovely mosquito net canopy around the bed. Wrapped gifts were in little piles for me in every room. I was overjoyed, to say the least.

Our days here so far have been easy and relaxing. I have been trying to overcome my tiredness from so much traveling. We've been zipping around town on Wren's rented moped. Traffic is a crazy mess of honking and close-call after close-call, but I find it quite fun and relaxing to ride on the back of the scooter and look around at the overstimulating everything as Wren takes us all around. I love it. The feel of this place (and the crazy traffic) reminds me a little of Barranquilla, Colombia (my dad's hometown).

There are cows walking around freely, everywhere. All of their light spots (some of their whole bodies) are still stained yellow from turmeric from a recent holiday, and many of them have horns painted red and little adornments with seashells strung on their heads. Quite beautiful. One cow in particular comes to our house every afternoon. She stands outside the gate and moos, and we (and the adjacent housemates) bring her scraps of fruits and veggies (basically our compost), which she gobbles up quickly before moving on to graze by the side of the road or venture off to be fed by somone else. I love her.

We've been drinking fresh coconut water from vendors on the side of the road everyday. We've done a little bit of shopping (My first day here I had to buy some cheap flip-flops to tide me over while I waited for the airline to deliver my bag, which was delayed because of the flight I missed) We went to a fabric/tailor shop, where I picked out some materials and styles of shirts & pants, and they took my measurements to make them for me. It is amazingly cheap.

My bag finally arrived yesterday, all contents present and intact. Whew!

Yesterday Wren took me to the famous Mysore market. It's an overwhelming, vibrant, bustling place. People shouting at us and trying to sell us their things everywhere we turned. Flowers, produce, and all sorts of other things piled everywhere. A festival of colors and smells. I loved it.

There is an adorable tiny girl in this internet cafe, who keeps coming up to my little booth and tapping my arm and smiling at me and then running away. Aaah! The children here are beautiful, and love to say hello.

I love everything about this trip so far. And it's only going to get better and better.